Hook up 2 amps my car

I prefer to use a regular distribution block, not the fused type. They're less expensive and there's no need for the extra fuses when there is already a fuse holder near the battery that protects the main power wire you'll have to install this fuse holder.

This assumes your amplifiers already have built in fuses that are designed to protect them. For amplifiers that do not have fuse protection you should use a fused distribution block.

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I often ground my components using separate ground points. I could go into all of the scientific reasons for this but it all boils down to noise. In my experience you have less chance for noise when you separate ground points as compared to using a single ground point. That's not to say that either way is a sure fire method to eliminate noise but it helps if they are separated by at least six inches or so I've found.


Car Audio: 2 amps... 1 power cable?

That being said, any grounding method that is both safe and effective while keeping out noise is a good method. I choose to separate the grounds but some installers choose to run them to the same point. If you choose to run your ground wires to one point you can also use a distribution block. If you do not use a distribution block then you will want to stack your ground wires so that the largest current carrying wire usually from your largest amplifier is on the bottom closest to the ground point and that your smallest current carrying wire is on the top closest to the head of your grounding screw.

Now that you have your power and ground wires connected you'll need to give your amplifiers a music signal usually the RCA cables run from the head unit. If your head unit is lacking these extra outputs then there are several other options. If your amplifiers will be powering dissimilar speakers subs, mids, tweeters, etc. Sub-bass frequencies would be sent to the subwoofer amplifier and high pass signals would be passed to the other amplifiers.

The crossover will have built in line drivers which will increase the voltage of the low level signal. This can help lower the noise of the system.

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Some amplifiers will have an RCA pass through circuit which can be used to drive another amplifier in the system. But if you upgrade to more powerful amps and subs, say w, that 8 gauge will burn and melt in no time at all. Then you will have to remove it, and rewire the car with 2 gauge wire. If you have a feeling that you may go bigger in the future, chose bigger wire. Multiple Wires can lead to ground noise. People with many components and wires running through their car can easily end up getting "ground noise," which is the whining sound that plays through your speakers and rises and falls with the rev of your engine.

A large power wire can create massive amounts of electromagnetic interference that can be picked up by RCA's of a 4-channel, and subsequently relayed back through the radio and mids and highs as ground noise. Fix the problem by running the power wire to the left of the driver side seat and placing the amp and RCA's under the passenger seat.

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Make everything color coded and neat. If power is red wire, ground is black, and remote is blue, then you will have an easier time keeping track of your wires and what they connect to.

Otherwise, if one amp fails, you may find yourself overwhelmed and needlessly tearing out wires. Determine whether you need multiple batteries and capacitors. If you have a w amp playing three w subs, but they really sound weak, then it's time to get more power. Alternatively, play the bass as loud as you can and see if your dome lights dim or not. If they barely flicker, then your power is manageable, but if they almost go dark with each bass note, then it's time for more power. There are three ways to go: Capacitors are usually small cylinders that come with a digital display showing your voltage in your car.

Ground Wire

They are rated by Farad's and the higher they are, the better the cap can store and release volts. They are for very minor power problems and simply add a more sophisticated look to an audio system. A 1-farad capacitor could potentially cost hundreds of dollars and not solve any power problems. The ideal voltage for a car audio system varies. For a low-end system, For average systems, Anything below 9 is extremely bad and should not be used until more power is added.

You may completely drain your existing car battery and render it useless. The cheapest way to fix a major power problem is with more batteries. Although wet cells can be used, they could spill battery acid in your car if they leak. Dry cell batteries are a better choice if you can afford them.

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  • Car Audio: 2 amps... 1 power cable?.
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Dry cells have no battery acid and are extremely safe in a vehicle. To install multiple batteries or capacitors , connect the main battery in the engine bay with the another one elsewhere in the car that has a large, low gauge wire like a 4 or 2. Systematically connect the next battery by running a wire from the first battery power, to the second battery power, and so on until you reach the last battery.

Connect the last battery to the amp s with a separate wire. Connect the batteries in the car with a large ground wire and ground it in metal. Be sure to put them in a sequence: By getting a larger alternator that puts of more amperage, your battery will be continuously and quickly charged. Whenever massive amounts of power is needed, it's directed from the alternator much more than the battery, giving you more power. A good amp alternator can really make a difference in sound quality and bass. You just have to find it for a good price and have it installed.

I'm pretty sure it's a 2-gauge cable.

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I haven't looked in a while. Thanks for the help guys. I don't have manuals for either one of my amps though I can't find manuals for either of these on the web. Thats how fires get started You are talking about: So if he ran them in series it would look like this: Fires happen because the current flowing through the power cable is too high for the cable, and it heats up and the heat causes something the insulation, other things around to ignite.

Current must flow from areas of higher potential to areas of lower potential. The only source of high potential in the circuit is the positive battery terminal, so if there's any current flowing, that must be the source. You have a fuse right by the battery, which makes sure that the current going through it is lower than its rated value.

That value is determined by the gauge of the wire it's attached to, essentially it makes sure that the current doens't reach dangerous levels for the given wire.

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So if any part of that first circuit is shorted to ground, there will be a massive amount of current flowing from the battery terminal to ground, which must pass through the fuse, thus causing it to blow. Now the only thing I can think of that Slasher could mean by " if done wrong " is if you wire the second leg with higher gauge wire. If you want to wire the whole positive side of the circuit on the same fuse, you have to make sure that the fuse can protect every part of the positive leg. That means that it would need to be 2-gauge through out, so you can't reach dangerous levels without blowing the fuse first.

This is the way your house is wired, you certainly don't have a seperate fuse for every outlet. Originally posted by Habit: Habit The inline fuses should be based on the wiring you use for the runs, not on the load. However at maximum those amps can draw 85 amps combined, so you want to give them a little headroom in addition to that, which means your power wire needs to be rated for at least this, and probably ish amps for good measure. Your 2 gauge wire will handle this. The amplifiers should also have fuses built-in to themselves, but that isn't something you have to worry about yourself.

The fuses you provide inline are for general protection, but mostly for protection against the insulation of the wire rubbing off and shorting against the frame of the car. Just a point of clarification here: Pretty much all of the above references to "serial" wiring should have referred to "parallel" wiring instead.